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Chef Ignacio Mattos of Café Altro Paradiso and Estela in NYC inspired this puréed lemon dressing with olive oil, miso, and honey—the ideal base note for pleasantly bitter radicchio.
- ¼ preserved lemon, seeds removed, chopped
- 6 tablespoons mild miso (such as white or yellow)
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Salad and Assembly
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 2 heads of radicchio (such as Castelfranco, Treviso, and/or Chioggia), leaves separated, halved if large
- 1 red endive, leaves separated
- 1 small Meyer lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed (optional)
- 2 cups peeled orange rounds (such as Cara Cara, blood, and/or mandarins)
Purée preserved lemon, miso, oil, honey, and lemon juice in a blender until smooth; season with salt.
Salad and Assembly
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Let cool, then cut in two.
Chop anchovies and garlic on a cutting board. Sprinkle lightly with salt and mash to a paste with the side of a chef’s knife. Mix in a large bowl with oil and lemon juice; season dressing with salt and pepper. Add radicchio, endive, and Meyer lemon and toss to coat; taste and season with more salt and pepper as needed. Add orange rounds and half of hazelnuts; toss once to combine.
Spread half of preserved-lemon purée onto a large platter (save remaining purée and use as a sandwich spread or a dressing for roasted vegetables). Top with salad; scatter remaining hazelnuts.
Nutritional ContentCalories (kcal) 480Fat (g) 35Saturated Fat (g) 4.5Cholesterol (mg) 5Carbohydrates (g) 39Dietary Fiber (g) 9Total Sugars (g) 25Protein (g) 8Sodium (mg) 2480Reviews Section
This Seasonal Ingredient Will Brighten Up Any Dish (Or Drink)
When you think of delicious fruit dishes, your mind may immediately transport to summer, when berries are ripe, sweet, and perfect for topping shortcakes, sprinkling into salads, and muddling into a cocktail or two. But there is a produce hero for winter that you may be overlooking — and it could be in your own backyard (literally). This season is prime time for lemons, oranges, grapefruits, and limes, which means there's no better moment to try out some seriously tasty citrus fruit recipes.
Think of citrus as the pumpkin of winter, in that it can be used to flavor a wide variety of dishes — and cocktails, of course. Because these fruits thrive in winter, not only are they more readily available (in fact, some parts of the world are lucky enough to have trees growing in proximity of picking), they're also the most flavorful. Additionally, their inherent tartness (though during this season they're the sweetest) makes them great for salad dressings, marinades for meat and seafood, and desserts. So basically you can design your whole dinner menu around them.
Ready to put this seasonal produce to delicious use? Ahead find a few recipes that use citrus as a star ingredient. And while they're pretty simple to make, if all else fails, you can always just make margaritas.
Reassessing our relationship with the aggressively bitter, emphatically purple chicory.
Whether or not you’ve noticed it, radicchio’s beginning to creep into your salad greens. The cabernet-hued chicory is slowly edging the baby kale and butter lettuces off the plate—landing on restaurant menus, in magazine spreads, and flowing down the Technicolor waterfall of Instagram. Maybe you tasted it at Angler in San Francisco, where whole heads of radicchio seasoned with a concentrated radicchio XO sauce became a favorite among diners, or in New York City at Via Carota, where radicchio gets softened on the grill and paired with goat cheese, currants, and pine nuts.
Or perhaps you’ve seen the overlapping layers of olive-oil-rubbed radicchio radiating from within a rustic tart crafted by pastry chef Natasha Pickowicz for the pages of the New York Times Magazine . Maybe you’ve picked up a copy of Samin Nosrat’s watershed book Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat and seen the recipe for roasted radicchio with Roquefort. And our dinner-party commander in chief, Alison Roman, suggests basing salads around a few heads of torn radicchio for dramatic effect. (Both of her cookbooks, Dining In and Nothing Fancy , include radicchio dishes as well.)
For anyone who grew up in Italy, where bitter chicories have been prized for centuries—for both their flavor and digestive properties—the sudden uptick in Americans’ interest is puzzling. Same goes for those who bow at the feet of Marcella Hazan, who espoused the idea that radicchio is the “most magnificent vegetable” in her 1997 book Marcella Cucina .
“Radicchio has always been it people just haven’t known,” says Jack Algiere, farm director at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture. But for the mainstream American palate, a population that covets the sweet and mild, radicchio’s bitterness—a byproduct of lactose, which the plant uses to prepare for seed development—has historically been off-putting. So why all the hype now?
“It’s just so strikingly beautiful,” says Raquel Pelzel, whose recently published cookbook Umami Bomb includes a tempting recipe for a green bean and charred radicchio salad. Chioggia, the most commonly found radicchio variety in America, shares the shape and dusky blush of a red cabbage with leaves that, like bok choy, turn snappy and white toward the core. According to Algiere, there are hundreds of other varieties—in Italy, you even find wild versions growing in pastures—and a great many of them are visually dazzling. “You see these versions like castelfranco and sugarloaf that have all these different speckles in lovely rosette colors,” he says.
“I’m not surprised that after decades of so many American menus featuring the same few leafy vegetables—for a while it was romaine, then arugula, then kale—chefs are branching out,” says Stacy Adimando, author of the new cookbook Piatti , which contains a recipe for charred radicchio and corn salad. “These bitter lettuces bring a lot of color, spice, and variety to dishes and menus during [autumn and winter], when what’s on the farm stands tends to be less diverse and more muted.”
In the age of Instagram, when images are often consumed as hungrily as the food itself, a dish’s—or, in this case, a vegetable’s—star power isn’t always directly linked to its flavor. But radicchio’s rise happens to synchronize perfectly with a moment when American consumers are slowly coming around to more challenging flavors—flavors with funky, sour, and spicy profiles. That openness now extends to the bitter flavors that we taste in things like hoppy IPAs, intensely dark chocolate, turmeric, and tahini. “Once people recognize that bitterness is an entire category, that changes everything,” Algiere says. “Besides, radicchios are not just bitter. They have these buttery, oily textures and a bright, complex sweetness underneath.”
Algiere values radicchio for its flavor, but also for the niche it fills as a crop that flourishes during the winter. “It grows best in the colder months, making it one of the great seasonal joys of the crop system,” he says.
“Serving radicchio is about partnering it with the right sidekicks,” Pelzel says. “Like the juicy tanginess of citrus…a sharp and salty hit from shaved parm, or the funk of blue cheese. Radicchio is more about the composition than the singular.” Adimando, meanwhile, views grilling as a gateway to radicchio and other bitter lettuces. “The leaves are delicious with a little char on them, and cooking the vegetable naturally mellows some of its bitterness and softens its bite,” she says. Roasting or broiling radicchio with copious amounts of olive oil, or stirring the softened leaves into risotto à la Marcella, are also time-tested preparations.
Radicchio’s rise happens to synchronize perfectly with a moment when American consumers are slowly coming around to more challenging flavors—flavors with funky, sour, and spicy profiles.
With the concurrent efforts of a few great farmers and a few enthusiastic chefs, a vegetable like radicchio can quickly transform from a cultural particularity to a mainstream sensation. One need only think about kale chips or cauliflower “rice” to understand the power of culinary groupthink. To that end, a network of farmers and chefs in the Pacific Northwest have taken on the role of radicchio ambassadors. They recently celebrated the second annual Chicory Week —a Seattle-based festival designed to, as their website puts it, “promote the heck out of radicchio.” One festival partner, the Culinary Breeding Network, even brought a stack of handmade zines dedicated to the vegetable.
From a consumer’s perspective, adding new produce to the repertoire is a universally good thing. For the grower, however, such a quick ascent can have drawbacks. “It can take seed companies years to stockpile enough seeds to keep up with demand,” Algiere says. In the case of kale, which American farmers grew 60 percent more of in 2012 than 2007, large-scale growers bought out swaths of the existing kale seed, leaving smaller growers in the lurch. “If it’s just a fad and not sustained, it can be disruptive,” he said.
Whether radicchio’s star will rise dramatically enough to cause a bum rush on seeds, or, say, influence Beyoncé’s sartorial choices, remains to be seen. But either way, American tables are certain to get a lot more bitter in the coming years—and that is actually pretty sweet.
Like oranges, there are also numerous cultivars of mandarins. Considered one of the original citrus fruits from which all others are descended, mandarins are fairly easy to peel, and relatively flat on the top and bottom. As the citrus matures, the core loosens, so it’s also easier to segment.
Mandarins can have a deep orange rind, though when grown in more tropical areas (like Florida) they can take on a greenish tint.
Commercially, groups of mandarins include satsumas and clementines.
How to use mandarins: Since they’re so easy to peel, mandarins and mandarin hybrids are excellent for snacking. When it comes to recipes, try using fresh-squeezed juice in a mimosa, or tossing pieces of fruit into this Winter Chicken Salad. The sweet juice would also be lovely as the base for a sorbet.
Rich in flavor, with a good sugar and acid balance, these are generally speaking the earliest maturing mandarin you’ll find in the market. The Owari satsuma, which has very few seeds, is the most common.
If you’ve ever bought a bag of Cuties, a trademarked brand of mandarin, at the market between November and January, you’ve enjoyed a clementine. (Cuties use a different kind of mandarin, the W. Murcott Afourers, between the months of February and April.)
Another popular trademarked brand, Halos, uses clementines and Murcotts, along with a third mandarin, the Tango, which was bred at U.C. Riverside.
The tangerine’s history is rather tangled. Tangerine is a nickname for a type of mandarin (Dancy), that is believed to have originated in the Moroccan port city of Tangiers in the mid-19th century. Today, notes Dr. Kahn, the word tangerine is often used interchangeably to refer to any mandarin.
This mandarin-grapefruit (or pomelo) hybrid can grow to about the size of an orange, sometimes even a grapefruit. The Minneola tangelo, one of the better-known varieties, is juicy, and has a rich, tart flavor. Its peel is also quite stubby at one end.
30 Savory Citrus Recipes That Bring Sunshine to the Dinner Table
Whether it's a dark, chilly day in winter or a sunny summer afternoon, citrus flavors instantly brighten just about any meal. From lemons and limes to oranges and grapefruit and everything in between, citrus fruit holds a special place in our heart. That's why we collected 30 citrus dinner recipes for you to make year-round, such as the Bibb-and-Citrus Salad with Sesame Crunch that's
We have several citrus recipes that you can make on the grill, such as grilled chicken breasts and grilled shrimp. The zest and juice of citrus are mixed into a glaze that is brushed on the meat, which infuses it with bright acidity. Serve these entrées with one of our delicious citrus side dishes&mdashwe pair the fruit with asparagus, carrots, fennel, peppery greens, and more. Of course, lemon juice is a classic ingredient in a traditional salad vinaigrette. In some recipes, we don't stray too far from the norm but other times we experiment with whole grain mustard instead of the usual Dijon, or preserved or Meyer lemons instead of freshly squeezed juice from Eureka lemons. See how the slightly sweeter citrus product shines in recipes like Peppery Greens with Meyer-Lemon Dressing.
Citrus (especially orange) can instantly perk up hearty meats like braised brisket or pork tenderloin, and we have several phenomenal recipes that show you how to do just that. And when paired with aromatics like garlic, shallots, and herbs, these citrus recipes become even more spectacular. Ready to start adding this bright fruit to your meals? Our recipes are exactly what you need.
Spring Egg Drop Soup
Classic Egg Drop Soup gets a healthy overhaul with Spring Veggies and a topping of Fresh Crab. Spring Produce is popping up everywhere – so I’m using glorious green vegetables and enhancing the classic Egg Drop Soup – I think for the better! The crab is optional, yet adds a lingering sweetness and a pop of color… fresh [&hellip]
Radicchio, pink grapefruit and gorgonzola winter salad recipe
Signe Johansen's radicchio, pink grapefruit and gorgonzola winter salad Credit: Patricia Niven
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F ull of bold colours, textures and flavours, this is a super salad Norwegian chef Signe Johansen's Solo: The Joy of Cooking for One (£16.99, Pan Macmillan) to try in the midwinter months – when citrus fruits are at their best, and you need a change from soup.
- 1 radicchio head
- 1 pink grapefruit
- Small wedge of gorgonzola cheese (I just go by eye)
- Small handful of toasted almonds
- Leaves from 1 sprig of thyme
- For the dressing
- 2 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp sherry or wine vinegar of choice
- 1 tsp wholegrain mustard
- 1 tsp plain or acacia honey
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Wash the radicchio and either peel the leaves all the way off or give the head a rough chop.
- Place the leaves in a shallow pasta bowl or on a dinner plate, then peel the grapefruit, and slice the flesh (thickly enough that the slices hold their shape) and scatter it on top. Place little bites of gorgonzola around the salad.
- Scatter over the almonds and thyme leaves.
- Mix the dressing ingredients together in a jam jar or cup (if using a jam jar, just seal and give it a really good shake to emulsify the vinaigrette) and taste. I like a very punchy, vinegar-rich dressing for this salad but if you prefer a more traditional vinaigrette, simply add a spoonful or two more olive oil until you have the consistency and flavour you like.
- Drizzle the dressing on top of the salad and keep any spare for dunking bread into.
R adicchio also marries well with pear and apple and, if you’re a fan of bitter flavours, blood orange.
Use other leaves such as chicory, frisée, watercress or rocket, if you prefer.
Lightly grill the radicchio if you fancy a warmer salad: chop it and lace it with a little oil then grill or quickly pan-fry it.
'The Lemon Cookbook' shows how to add tangy bursts of flavor to every meal: Cookbook review
"The Lemon Cookbook" by Ellen Jackson includes savory dishes like Spaghetti With Radicchio, Ricotta and Lemon-Garlic Bread Crumbs.
(John Valls/Sasquatch Books)
$19.95 Sasquatch Books 144 pages
In a nutshell: Experienced home cooks know that when a dish they're making falls flat on flavor, it probably needs one of two things: a touch more salt, or a splash of fresh, tangy citrus. Portland cookbook author Ellen Jackson focuses on the latter with "The Lemon Cookbook," a compact collection of 50 recipes that use fresh lemons to give a bit of zip to both sweet and savory dishes, ranging from breakfast dishes to entrees. Included are tips on how to properly buy, store and use lemons, including how to maximize their flavor by incorporating zest into food, and how to extract as much juice as possible.
Take a taste: David's Double-Lemon Dutch Baby Lemon Cornmeal Ricotta Waffles Shaved Zucchini Salad With Lemon and Marjoram Cracked Wheat and Carrot Salad With Preserved Lemon Toasted Cauliflower "Couscous" With Lemon, Parsley and Almonds Lemon Miso-Roasted Delicata Squash Asparagus and Lemon Pesto Pizza With Smoked Mozzarella Lemon Dal With Spinach and Yogurt Spaghetti With Radicchio, Ricotta and Lemon-Garlic Bread Crumbs Cedar Plank-Grilled Salmon With Lemons Grilled Flank Steak With Charred Lemon Chimichurri Best Lemon Bars Toasted Coconut-Lemon Tart.
What's hot: For a book with only 50 recipes, there's a nice range of cooking styles represented the section on staples has an easy method for making preserved lemons -- you'll never have to spend a lot of money on imported ones again.
What's not: There are only 50 recipes - I could have used 50 more.
A Zest for Lemons
Although I lead a basically law-abiding life, there is one little area in which I indulge in the teeniest bit of larceny: lemons. If it is citrus season, chances are my pockets are bulging with as many lemons as I can grab when I pass a tempting tree.
The appearance of all citrus, but especially the lemon, is like magic. Here it is, the middle of winter, life is damp and cold, and the world of fruit and vegetables is filled with roots and earthy colors. Suddenly, dotting the trees is this brightly colored fruit with its tangy refreshing juiciness, and life is fabulous again.
Lemon is the perfect antidote to winter's heavy foods, able to transform both savory and sweet with its hit of invigoratingly sour flavor and negligible calories (about 20 per fruit). During this season of colds and flu, you will appreciate the hefty dose of vitamin C that it delivers. Squeeze a lemon or two onto your winter menu and your food life is alive with sunshine.
And so, I reassure myself that whoever owns whichever tree I'm lusting after at the moment will want me to enjoy its fruit.
And enjoy I do, feeling rich beyond measure when I am in possession of a few well-grown lemons.
"But why steal when you can buy?" you might ask.
Joy of foraging
For one thing, there is the joy of foraging through the neighborhood, foraging through the world, seeing them hanging enticingly on the tree, sniffing as you touch their aromatic skins, then reaching out and picking.
Another reason is the variety of lemon types. If you stuck with buying them in shops and grocery stores, you'd be limited by the different types of lemons, with their varying tastes and perfumes. OK, it's probably best to stick with the letter of the law, to get your lemons from friends who, as their trees bear fruit, will likely tell you to "Come and pick!" or even just bring you bags of the juicy sour fruit. Or, you can do as I often do, walk up to the door, and ask to pick a few lemons. I've never had anyone say no.
And it is the picking that is magic. I know the fruit is utterly fresh.
Mind you, I don't belong to the something-for-nothing contingent. I would like to give more than I take in this life. And though I don't have a lemon tree, my herb garden is lush and vibrant all are welcome to snip bouquets of rosemary, sage and lavender.
Recently, however, I admit that my rationalization about lemon foraging was stretched, even in my own eyes. There I was in Italy, in Sorrento, a gemlike little town that hugs Campania's breathtakingly beautiful coastline. In the summer, it's "la dolce vita," with glamorous people dipping pedicured toes into the gentle sea, oiling their lipo-ed tummies and basking in the warmth of delicious nothingness. In winter, however, it becomes another town altogether, like a celluloid star who takes off her make-up and becomes a beloved aunt, welcoming you as if you are family. And in winter Sorrento is no longer about swimsuits and chic sunglasses it's all about lemons. .
That's because Sorrento - the whole of the Sorentine and Amalfi coastline, in fact - is basically one huge lemon farm. Amalfi's designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site is due in large part to its terraces of lemons. Peer over any stone wall and you see fruit-studded groves, branches of lemons poking up from gardens, hanging over walls, so laden with fruit that you feel you must pick, if only to relieve the tree of its weight. Peek past an ancient archway and you'll find rows of trees, so verdant that their leafy branches intertwine and form a canopy under the sky and over the lemons.
And what lemons they are: Sorrento lemons, Amalfi lemons, Minori, Maiori, and Cetara lemons, lemons from the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida. Each type with its own personality and character - giant Ponsiri, large as cantaloupes, for slicing into salads delicate fleshed small Sfusato, tasty in the iconic lemoncello. Lemons that can be eaten on their own, as locals do, sprinkled with sugar or salt as on Capri, or eaten with olive oil and vinegar as in Sorrento, squeezed onto leafy salads everywhere.
The big lemon
It was just another gorgeous winter day in Sorrento, and I was effortlessly appreciating everything about life, with no destination or object to the day. And then I saw it: a giant yellow sphere. This was a big lemon in a world of big lemons. A massive lemon. A lemon that was like a globe of the earth, a model of the sun. A gleaming lemon the size of a melon, hanging heavily, tantalizingly, from an otherwise normal-looking tree on the grounds of our hotel.
I couldn't get that lemon out of my mind. Though I kept myself busy throughout the day, I was obsessed with the lemon. Fetching the British Husband to distract me, we strolled along the cliffs, sat in a park overlooking the sea, visited the local church with its incense smells and gilded statues. We had a coffee. We had another coffee.
Meanwhile, I was grappling with the forces of good and evil. "Who would miss the big lemon?" I asked myself. After all, lemons were all over the place. I thought I'd forget the big lemon if I purchased some little lemons at a little shop. "Sorrento lemons," said the elderly greengrocer, with a doting smile. I paid my Euros and a feeling of well-being came over me. I had my Sorrento lemons, paid for honestly. I had done the right thing.
Then we turned the corner and suddenly I was face to face with the big lemon. And what's more, the British Husband saw it too. Unlike his usual stance of never stealing anything, straight-as-an-arrow honesty, one look at this lemon and his eyes lit up.
It was too late for distraction, too late for conscience. No matter what we did from here on in, I knew that big lemon was in the back of his mind, and he knew I could think of nothing else. We made excuses to pass the tree simply to view the lemon lovingly. Finally, he blurted out, with more emotion than I'm used to him showing, "I can take it no longer. I simply must have that lemon!"
So I rationalized. In January tourists leave Sorrento until the spring. There would be no one in the hotel to appreciate the big lemon. Bringing it home to our friends and relatives would be sharing it, albeit in a different way.
We did the deed quickly, guiltily, though quite smoothly, wrapping the lemon up in my shawl to carry it, cradled, through the hotel lobby. I heard someone murmur about "il bambino."
It nearly didn't fit in the suitcase. I had to jettison a pair of shoes and my favorite undies to make room. When we got home, the giant lemon took place of honor at our table. We shared it with friends who ooohed and aaaahed over it we ate a fabulous salad, preserved chunks in salt, grated its zest for pasta and risotto, sprinkled thin slices with sugar, and when we caught a cold, floated pieces of the big lemon in honey-scented tea.
Perfect Winter Greens, a combination of hearty bitter leaves to balance the fruits sweetness, blended with peppery arugula & watercress, softened with butterblend. Drizzled with a bright, zesty citrusy vinaigrette finished with pistachios to lend a little salt & crunch.
butterblend or boston lettuce
chives or torn mint or both
grapefruit slices & segments
toasted & seasoned pistachios
Preparing the greens
Washing the greens
fill your salad spinner with cool water, add one type of greens per washing
soak for 20 minutes, lift basket up, pour out water
fill spinner with cold water add greens for a second washing, swirl greens gently
drain, spin, gently wrap in clean slightly damp dish towel or paper towel
wrap in ziplock bag, store for 3-5 days
TIP: Store greens separately, better shelf life
TIP: Keep leaves intact to avoid browning
Preparing the garnishes
Citrus fruit is all about personal preference, select a variety of oranges or select a variety of grapefruits or both. Choose heavy, sweet and juicy fruit. The key is to remove the skin & the bitter pith. Cut into segments and slices. This step can be prepared a day ahead covered in an airtight container & refrigerated.
Pomegranates add flavour, crunch & are in season. Wash the pomegranate well before starting. Place on cutting board and cut along the top about 1/2” to expose the fruit and white membrane. Cut down the fruit, through the skin, along the membrane.
Fill a bowl with water. Immerse the pomegranate into the water, pull apart into wedges. Gently release the seeds. The seeds will sink, the membrane will float to the top. Skim top with a sieve to remove the membrane. Drain the seeds, place into a container & refrigerate until ready to use. Prepare a day ahead.
Choose firm radishes. Wash well. Shave with a mandoline or slice as thin as possible. Place radish slices into iced water to crisp up. Store in refrigerator. Prepare a day ahead.
TIP: Shave the radish using a mandoline so they don’t cling to the delicate greens & weigh them down
To assemble the salad start with an oversized platter to create a single layer.
Place a few citrus rounds in the corner. Add a layer of radicchio, butterblend & Belgian endive. Scatter watercress, place arugula leaves into crevices of endive, arrange citrus segments & lightly scatter the radish.
TIP: Getting ahead. Prep the platter ahead to this point. Cover the salad with a damp towel, cover with plastic to retain moisture. Holds well for up to 5 hours.
FINAL TOUCHES: Just prior to serving unwrap the platter. Season well, scatter pistachios, top with chives, garnish with pomegranate.